Cachoiera

I mentioned before that the graffiti was really cool in Salvador: 

And then I was off to a rural area called Cachoeira. With a quick 3 hour bus ride, we were there in Cachoeira. The first night we didn't really do that much. After the traveling, and the waiting and the lack of lunch, I was pretty hungry. I got out of the bus to this riveira place of sorts and there happened to be a bowl of fruit on the table... and there happened to be someone telling us we could eat it, and then there happened to be a ripe mango in my hands. I devoured several pieces of fruit, and still hungry, went at the watermelon with a knife. We had an afternoon relaxing and even got a little kid band to serenade us before we went off to meet our host families. They were surprisingly good, with a little 8 year old in the center rocking out on the saxophone. 

After that, we headed to a capoiera demonstration of sorts, where the kids had a capoiera circle going. Then a man whose pants were falling off of his ass decided to join in. He was badly sunburned to the point where I don't know if he had ever heard of sunscreen, but he had some moves. The capoiera circle took it in stride, incorporating him in. We got called one by one to embrace our host families, and it kinda gave off the feeling that we were getting chosen for a team. I had the one man, and we had one of those moments where one person goes in for a hug (me) and one person goes in for a handshake (him). Great way to make a first impression.  

We had to wait a little bit after that, and as some residual little kids were around so of course we played  capoiera with them, with me trying to remember my latent skills from elementary school. And finally, it was time to go to the homestay and knock out. I found that I was sharing a room with my host father, and while he offered me the big bed, I was content with a bed in general.

One of my favorite things about rural life is the inherent safety that comes with it. I feel safe running at night, I feel safe bringing my camera out, and this means this post actually has some pictures to accompany it.

The next day, we headed out to a health post to check out how the health care system actually functions, and especially how it works in a rural context. We piled into vans and off we went.

This is probably one of my favorite photos of my trip so far. This one features Sierra and her afro.

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At the health post, there was a waiting area full of predominantly women. I guess men did not deign to go to the health post. There was also an adorbale little girl above that was slightly distracting my attention. The nurses took advantage of the captive audience, and gave a lecture about water. They were more aware in some senses than we in the United States are. They acknowledged the potential to run out of water, and told how important it is to have clean, sanitary water. Then we were placed with a man named Glaucio, a community agent in charge of health on the front line, checking with individual people and making sure that everyone is ok. This is one of the major facets of the SUS (the brazilian health care system); they emphasize prevention over emergency room care, something we can take a lesson from. We did some hiking through the area, going to individual houses and Glaucio knew everyone. He was distributing these things called bolsa familias reminders, basically making sure people check in and get their welfare.

the scenic skyline of cachoeira

kitty!!

Trash was just littered everywhere. We could see the degree of unhealthy eating, the wrappers of junkfood scattered.

Yum!!

living like a boss

Stand by moment, we crossed the bridge, and we really hoped that a train wouldn't come at just the wrong moment... 

We spent some time interviewing the local personnel, but I wouldn't want to bore you with too many details.

In the evening, we went to this casa de farinha, which is this place where they make tapioca. The women offered to let some of us participate me, and hopefully by now you know me, I am very much an experiential learner, so I jumped on the opportunity. The things they make with tapioca are kinda amazing. Everything from these cracker things, to butter dough balls to this warm tapioca drink.

I took the opportunity to run in the morning, and the way I usually don't get lost is that I mark places that I have been to, noticing certain patterns etc whenever I make turns. I tried that approach on my run in Cachoiera, and I marked a straight road, a line of palm trees, and a blue bus sign. I figured that was enough, but turns out, not. I ran down several roads, and it was a true testament to my portuguese that I got back safely.

For the day activity, we got to explore an apiary (a place where they make honey)

honey

and the place that makes it, the bee is coming out as I take the picture

After interviewing a Candomble healer, we headed back to a waning sun. We also interviewed a benzedor, which is a dying art. Apparently, all the benzedores have to find young apprentices, but the young ones of this generation aren't so into this idea, so only a few benzedores still exist.

These are my meninas (girls). They stayed with me and were essentially continually adorable.

Probably my best story from cachoeira was my longest run yet far in Brazil. I set out at about 8 and with a trusty headlamp and 10 reais, I set off into the darkness. Water or lack thereof tends to be my biggest problem, so I bought two waters, and ran along the highway, listening for the sounds of engines as they went roaring around the corner. It might be hard to understand, but running can be very tranquil at times, a way to process past events and plan new ones. At other times, it can be less so. After running for 40 minutes in one direction, I decided to turn around. On my way back, I noticed  some dogs barking at me and didn't think much of it. I did think much of it when they streamed across the highway and came quite close to me, barking. Staring them down, I slowly edged away, and with my adrenaline fully engaged, I ran my way back home.

 We explored the open air market, and sampled some of the wares while we were there.

We also had the chance to go samba dancing, and learn from some of the people that created Brazilian samba as we now know it, which was pretty fun. It is always cool to see old people rocking out, putting us young ones to shame.

I played so much tag while I was there. It was awesome, a harkening back to my childhood. I had forgotten how much I love playing with kids, and especially, being the older person who has some measure of responsibility but is at the same time looked up to. In some ways, while my portuguese might be lacking, I am realizing that there are some fundamental languages that humans speak that do not necessarily need to be spoken. For instance, lifting kids, playing with kids, dancing to music (and gangnam style----yay globalization), all these can be done essentially without speaking. I felt that through these languages and my limited control of portuguese, I really bonded with the people there. 

And as quick as I had come, I had to leave....